Tea Pot Chronicles in the Amazon

“There isn’t a right time or place for making a first brew within a teapot. It is in the making of many pots of tea that a pot becomes right”.

These words, spoken years ago by Mr. Lu in Taiwan were words that had stuck in my mind. They weren’t really meant in any way to be deep or doctrinaire, but they had remained with me.

The words spoken (and as I interpreted them), emphasized the idea that a pot/vessel and its user (and the leaves and water that would infuse within the vessel) alchemize over time. They bond with experiences and time. A pot ‘becomes’ what it is through use and care and the ‘act’ of what it was created to do.

A pre-trip rinse

Every tea vessel of mine in subsequent years has evolved into the piece that it represents on a day of serving, through its own experiences and my own daily interactions with it. Through the deed of preparing and infusing, it has evolved into something of meaning and memory.

Recently another of Emilio del Pozo’s (The Jade Leaf) hand made pieces came into the family – and it came just before a month long return to the Amazon region of Colombia. Travel with pots, leaves, and the little rituals associated with the packing, always seem to embed the details and elements a little deeper into the memory palace. Which leaves will accompany which pot? Which  pot? How many pots?

First Meeting

In the case of this journey, the leaves are a compressed 200 gram cake of Jing Mai old tree brilliance. Lighter in force and with only 3-years of ageing behind it, the leaves remain clean, fragrant bits that are almost impossible to over-infuse. A tea custom fit for tea on the road.

The choice of which leaves and which vessel has never been so much a luxury as it is a cheerful choice – a choice to invite a set of leaves and flavour components along with a particular clay or ceramic vessel – on a journey that will forever remain in the mindset and be associated with a place, its humidity, its air and its people. It is a deliberate selection of items (or needs) that will always be linked to the journey. Leaves and a pot that are used at home become something else when used ‘on-the-road’, and particularly when that ‘road’ is a series of some of the most iconic waterways on the planet.

The journey itself along tributaries of the Amazon by boat for our documentary film project “It’s a Beautiful World” that traces waterways including the Igara Parana, the Putumayo, the Cotuhe and Pupunya, before joining the main trunk of the Amazon itself. Our journey will pass through much of what was once a corridor of utter destruction wrought by the various outside forces that sought precious resources. The region’s highlight of destruction was brought to utter reality by the years of the rubber boom in the late 19th and early 20th Century. Regions and peoples cut off from all external forces – forced and pried open – that now lie in some middle zone of struggling with the notion of ‘progress’ which in many cases is simply other’s definition of ‘progress’. Still there are hubs and zones of some kind of isolated tranquility, but much of the region remains under the shadow of history.

It is within these areas of so much turmoil and power that I took tea as often as water and time allowed. A thermos was always at hand, tucked away in a satchel for quick nips when I wasn’t near my pot and kettle.

For a month, the 140 ml blue celadon pot was the first bit of structure I interacted with each and every morning aboard a hospital boat (the first of its kind in such areas) called the ‘Mau Pata’. My bunkmate in the minuscule room, Jonathan, would partake with me each morning at 5:30am as we would chat the day into its first hour of waking time. The tea was part of the conversations and thoughts and just observations of days upon the river.

The ‘line up of us in the village of Cris along the Putu Mayo River with Finn, Jonathan, and Matt.

It, my two cups, and my cake of tea remained on a cheap, unstable, small plastic shelf, for the entirety of the journey – through regions of humidity and grand silences; through days of blessings and permissions by elders. Ultimately, it fuelled – and perhaps helped – hone a perspective upon all of which was taken in.

Along the Cotuhe River

And so the pot became part of the trip; it became part of the support and joy of the journey, and it became imbued and infused by the time and space of the ‘lungs of the world’, the Amazon Rain Forest.

Sitting in a peque-peque with Jing Mai leaves and a withering sun in the Cotuhe River at the village of St. Lucia.

Pot, leaves, and I all returned home intact and infused with little bits of residual humidity, flavour, and memory from the journey. A couple of ants too, made it into what was left of the tea cake for the return journey.

About JeffFuchs

Bio Having lived for most of the past decade in Asia, Fuchs’ work has centered on indigenous mountain cultures, oral histories with an obsessive interest in tea. His photos and stories have appeared on three continents in award-winning publications Kyoto Journal, TRVL, and Outpost Magazine, as well as The Spanish Expedition Society, The Earth, Silkroad Foundation, The China Post Newspaper, The Toronto Star, The South China Morning Post and Traveler amongst others. Various pieces of his work are part of private collections in Europe, North America and Asia and he serves as the Asian Editor at Large for Canada’s award-winning Outpost magazine. Fuchs is the Wild China Explorer of the Year for 2011 for sustainable exploration of the Himalayan Trade Routes. He recently completed a month long expedition a previously undocumented ancient nomadic salt route at 4,000 metres becoming the first westerner to travel the Tsa’lam ‘salt road’ through Qinghai. Fuchs has written on indigenous perspectives for UNESCO, and has having consulted for National Geographic. Fuchs is a member of the fabled Explorers Club, which supports sustainable exploration and research. Jeff has worked with schools and universities, giving talks on both the importance of oral traditions, tea and mountain cultures. He has spoken to the prestigious Spanish Geographic Society in Madrid on culture and trade through the Himalayas and his sold out talk at the Museum of Nature in Canada focused on the enduring importance of oral narratives and the Himalayan trade routes. His recently released book ‘The Ancient Tea Horse Road’ (Penguin-Viking Publishers) details his 8-month groundbreaking journey traveling and chronicling one of the world’s great trade routes, The Tea Horse Road. Fuchs is the first westerner to have completed the entire route stretching almost six thousand kilometers through the Himalayas a dozen cultures. He makes his home in ‘Shangrila’, northwestern Yunnan upon the eastern extension of the Himalayan range where tea and mountains abound; and where he leads expeditions the award winning ‘Tea Horse Road Journey’ with Wild China along portions of the Ancient Tea Horse Road. To keep fueled up for life Fuchs co-founded JalamTeas which keeps him deep in the green while high in the hills.
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