Tag Archives: Amdo
Lobsang – On Water in the Himalayas
A morning of brittle cold that brought the eyes to a standstill in Darlag, southern Amdo. Lobsang watches while his two sons source ice from a nearby ‘lake’ to bring home to boil for morning tea. Lobsang asked me whether … Continue reading
Beijing International Society Presents : Jeff Fuchs – The Ancient Himalaya Salt Route
Jeff Fuchs will speak at Beijing International Society speaking about the lost nomadic route of salt: “In Search of White Gold – The Ancient Himalaya Salt Route”, September, 8, 2011 here
A bus, A Cherub and More Hills
Gansa is no more – back to Xining and onto one of those bizarre 15 hour bus rides that become like their own little worlds. Bunk beds and cell phones everywhere and a populace of forty-five or so that … Continue reading
Mr. Lu’s Dong Ding – A Flight of Taiwanese Fancy in Qinghai
Days of wandering the mountains and the sturdy nomadic corridors of Qinghai and Gansu have brought Taiwan’s world of lush Oolongs to my mind, though there are little external or obvious links…perhaps it is simply a ‘thirst’. Years have passed … Continue reading
Horses, Blue and a Rail
Qinghai or for the Tibetans, Amdo – Michael and I have entered from the eastern Gansu border by that ‘everywhere’ mode of transportation in this part of the world, the bus. The struggle is as usual present; coming out of … Continue reading
The Way of Heights
Informality amongst nomads, and that feeling of immediate and informal acceptance comes from their own necessary and inevitable informality amongst themselves. Sickness, births, joy and efforts are shared in real time every day of every season. Bonds are strong … Continue reading
Yaks, Creases and Nomads
The man we pick up in Nyimalung has the calm eyes and weathered face that the mountains create and sculpt almost at will. Songjem is in his early sixties and his face and countenance have a lived in quality that … Continue reading
Gansu – Towards the Hills
Michael and I are back in our beloved hinterlands driving deep into the nomadic territories of Gansu province. Continuing my travels into the frontiers to witness a very special way of life change. In this part of the world at … Continue reading
Jeff’s article in the South China Morning Post (Hong Kong) on the Salt Road Expedition
Click here for the article. For access to the full feature article you must sign up (free for the first two weeks). Enjoy with a cup of tea and a lick of salt.
Amne Machin Farewell – A Descent
Looking at the sky we see fierce white monotones and wind’s power, below in front of us on the earth lies a different story. An avalanche’s disintegrating power has rearranged the land in front of us. A brutal black surge … Continue reading