Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Part Human and a Little Part Goat

Over the course of years since meeting Dorjè I’ve written and pondered much about him. “Part goat and a little part human” was how he was described to me. Perhaps sounds unfair but the goats’ abilities in the Himalayas are legendary and entirely positive. He was (and remains) one of the most feral and strong men I’ve ever encountered with DNA that must read like a fascinating spread sheet of strengths and small micro links between tendons, muscles, and reaction times. Whisky would always come before tea, and loyalty to friends and family before all else. He was integral in a 52-day trek portion along the Tea Horse Road from northwestern Yunnan across eastern Tibet, and I’ve seldom seen a stronger sense of honour and sheer physical strength in a mortal being. His other nickname was ‘Peter O’Toole’ for reasons that most would understand, though I needed to explain this reference to the other team members. This photo of Dorjè was taken during a rare moment of relative calm in his home in Yong Zhr, near Kawa Karpo. He remains one whose strengths lie in the doing and remaining true to his path. Amongst his many ‘Dorj-Moments’, many stand out. One such ‘moment’ was more like a series of moments when our team had arrived to a remote village along the Tsayuchu river valley. We needed supplies after having been so long upon the route, and we needed to information about the path ahead. Dorjè promptly announced that he didn’t like the “feel” of the place, and had his knife close at hand. He stalked through the minuscule town and pleaded with us to leave and not worry about food and directions through the nearby snow mountains, and that he would make it up to us somehow. He was relentless in his request, so after having secured a small bit of food, we were off. Dorjè would in fact guide us true over a nearby pass and find us a more inviting community to rest in and gather supplies.
Portrait along the Tea Horse Road
Posted in Explorations, Mountains, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Choices, No Choices, and some Courage

Ascending up to the Sho La Pass in northwestern Yunnan in May there would always be a chance of weather issues, but it would still be a surprise when, even at the relatively kind altitudes of 3000 metres, the skies churned and smouldered and our intended pathway became lost amid a late snowfall. A mule and its cargo became lodged in  deep snow at the top left, but this moment was entirely about the young 16-year year old Lisu boy and his courage taking charge of our team. He had to take the lead of our mule tea team, meticulously picking his footing so as not to risk the hooves of the mules. He wasn’t a muleteer and he wasn’t used to snow but he relentlessly moved onwards and upwards, wordlessly moving over the deceptive white carpet. He, like so many youth, simply needed the work and he wouldn’t relent. Thirty minutes after this photo we would almost lose Dakpa (top left in orange) in hidden crevasse covered in a fresh snow layer, and our mules would halt, unable to proceed. A blizzard came in reducing sight lines to mere feet and four of us would continue over the pass, while the mules, our gear, and the young Lisu boy would remain waiting for the weather to ease. It wouldn’t. I would never see the young boy again, and wouldn’t see my gear for another week. I would see two of the mules years later on another crossing of the Sho La Pass…in far better weather.  It is these largely untapped tales and risks that make the Tea Horse Road such an underrated part of Asian history.
Caravan along the Tea Horse Road
Posted in Explorations, Mountains, Tea, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Tea and Bloodlines

On foot our team of four puttered and wandered west (often faintly lost) through the Nyanqen Tanghla mountains in Tibet towards Lhasa. Highlights seemed on some days to be every single breath and moment. On other days, the grind of silent plodding under the sky made tea brakes and chats with locals something utterly vital. Tea was the one offering and item that seemed available at all times, in any space, where any ‘community’ existed. Sometimes, this would be a ‘community’ of one. Such was the case at this gentleman’s home near Ala Jagung. Elegance personified he carefully prepared butter tea nodding and confirming that we were on the correct ‘middle route’ of the Tea Horse Road. He fixed himself up at one point telling us that we should photograph a “real Khampa”. Even though we were long miles away from the lands of the Khampa, her reminded us that the Khampa traders travelled anywhere, and in his case he was a descendant of a Khampa tea trader himself that had found love upon the road…and make a new home.
tea stories from the himalayas
Posted in Explorations, Mountains, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Tea and Bloodlines

Tea Horse Road Chronicles – The Great Bend of the Yangtze

It was here at the ‘first bend of the Yangtze’ in Yunnan province that the Mongolian armies of the Yuan Dynasty crossed the great waterway and would ‘take’ the previously independent region into the greater fold of the Middle Kingdom 中国 (China).

The first bend of the Yangtze River in Yunnan

This was also a key stopping point along the Tea Horse Road where our team would pass through. Wandering through an area of rough overgrown foliage just west of the village of Shigu, we would (with the help of locals) come upon a small grave site with old headstones which were engraved with various designs of the horse. Tiny and inconsequential, it was as if the site had been forgotten except by the mosses and the foliage that reclaimed the bit of space at the base of a mountain. These, we were told, were what was left of a small collection of muleteers and tea traders who had passed away at or near this point upon the trade route over the course of years. A final place of rest with a stunning view for a few who could go no further and for those whose homes and families were distant. Looking ‘up’ the Yangtze we could just begin to make out the snow peaks that marked the unofficial gateway into the Himalayas. As a aside, none of the teas we sipped in this region gave any satisfaction, except for a rippingly pungent bit of Puerh we had with us.

Posted in Mountains, Tea, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Tea Horse Road Chronicles – The Great Bend of the Yangtze

Tea Horse Chronicles – Remnants

Within the tidy remnants of a former ‘Tea and Horse Trade Office’ in Mingshan County, near Ya’an in Sichuan, Jamyan and I wandered for 25 bizarre and wondrous minutes. As we made our way in to the horse dung and incense-tainted world, it was as though everything briefly became another world. It was here to this ‘office’ that horses that came from Tibet would be brought, traded (and taxed), bought and sold. This office was despised in the past as tax offices are despised everywhere but played host to thousands of horses a year in its time.
Tea Horse Road - Tax Office
Now it played host to three ancient women who showed up daily to sweep the floors, play mahjong, and chat over tea. When we arrived we were told to pay an admittance fee, though it seemed that it was up to us whether we did or didn’t. We did and walked ourselves through the damp and dark spaces that had seen so much life of the Tea Horse Road. This portrait was taken just as we left, and as much as I didn’t want to disturb the three elders, I couldn’t help but ask. The whole place felt lonely and forgotten and so did the ladies. I expected a rejection from her when I asked, but she just nodded and that was it. As we left the decaying little remnant of trade from another time, one of the ladies said “Thanks for coming”.
Posted in Explorations, Media, Tea, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Tea Horse Chronicles – Remnants

The Tea Sessions – A New Column with Outpost Magazine

Given the span of time and efforts to immerse in leaves and the lives connected to tea, there aren’t many more satisfying additions than starting up a tea column (in joyous  collaboration with Outpost Magazine). These pieces will comprise ‘The Tea Sessions’ and they’ll take place in the midst of blizzards in the Himalayas, be inundated with butter, formality in Tokyo, ripping tea buzzes in Taiwan or simply serving Paniolos from my own stash here in Hawaii. It is about a coming together and a kind of union, however informal.

Tea Sessions and Sips of Tea

The idea is based upon a set of tea journeys that involve some of the more epic characters, moments that rip into the very bloodstream, and spaces and efforts dedicated to the leaf. Though The Tea Sessions doesn’t and won’t really do justice to the characters and the intimate spaces, ‘tea’ is the inextricable resin that binds all of these elements together.

The Tea Sessions and Tea Kettles

Inevitably most of these elements don’t necessarily involve the ‘best’ teas – or sometimes even good teas – but they all involve an immersion into – and efforts dedicated to stimulation and restoration…or just very large characters who know well the art of generosity, in a time that is so in need of this old code of simple giving and providing. A tea-fuelled set of journeys that touch upon the stimulant fuel but most often about a dive into the visceral moments that blow the whole internal system side open.

The Tea Sessions in Every Space

It will be about the tea, yes, as it is this vegetal elixir and panacea of which so much of the column is about – but it will also about attempting to conjure up the sensory moments as well.

On we go…and best taken with a sip of something.

The Tea Sessions and the Ceremony

Posted in Explorations, Tea, Tea Horse Road, The Tea Sessions | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on The Tea Sessions – A New Column with Outpost Magazine

Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Other Tales and Sight

Not all stories of the Tea Horse Road were ones of grand expanses, snow caps, or buzzing tea sessions. A friend from the Yi minority invited me to visit his grandmother who had tales of her own to tell. She had lost two members of her family decades ago upon the route in separate incidents. One went missing and one died in a accident. In her nineties and not certain of her own exact age, she hosted us for three days, serving teas, running around to ensure we were comfortable and fed. She largely subsisted on a diet of raw chicken eggs mixed with sugar and a splash of local alcohol. It was only close to our departure that we were told that she was all but blind and that her movements were almost entirely by memory. She herself remains in the memory.
Posted in Tea, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Fields vs Forests

Blankets and ridges of green stimulant leaf lie in rows near Puerh. Here the leaf is entirely industry. Gorgeous industry, but still industry. Local Hani, Han, Yi, Lahu, and Dai pluckers shimmy through the humid air to pluck, pluck, and pluck some more. My guide here amidst the fields, “Little Rabbit”, mentioned how in his family “only wants to drink tea, not work with tea”. We stood with a 360 degree amphitheatre of young and medium growth bushes around us. Though beautiful, I craved the rampant old growth forests which retain still something of a world beyond simply the commerce of a leaf that I’ll never stop being in love with. There is a quote that I think embodies the world of tea from a tea selling friend of mine in Jinghong, Yunnan,”It is the teas from the messy beauty of the forests that the dedicates crave, rather than the teas from the ‘perfect’ fields”.
Posted in Explorations, Tea, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Fields vs Forests

Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Empress of Cloth

Ponzera, or Benzilan as it is now known, is a small valley town in northwestern Yunnan that lies alongside a headwater stream of the Yangtze River. For its size and population, its contributions to the Tea Horse Road spanned vast and deep. Rhododendron roots carved into butter tea bowls, humour, and some of the better muleteers hailed from this town of heat. Another and more rare commodity was also sourced here: fine stitched fabrics that were coveted in Lhasa and beyond. Sitting with this matron sipping tea, we listened to how her family over generations had been weaving and stitching fabrics for traders to take east to Lhasa. She spoke with a quiet dignity and pride of her lineage and contributions to the great highway through the sky or the ‘Eternal Road’ as some referred to the Tea Horse Road. Auntie Lhamo was riveting and commanding in every micro movement and breath and our team sat around her, enthralled and perhaps in a kind of adoration and love. Majestic, she wasn’t at all surprised that we sought to to meet with her in her home, saying: “You should come to see me. I have the Tea Horse Road in my blood”.
 
Her tea too, was imperious with fresh thick yak butter , with a heavy salt tang, gathered from nearby brine wells. As friend and team member on the expedition would say later, “You can tell much about a person by the tea they serve”. And so, the Empress’ offering mirrored her character perfectly.
Posted in Explorations, Mountains, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Empress of Cloth

Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Way Out, and Out Again

Yeshi and I shared tea with this old memory palace of time. Goat milk and butter were used instead of yak variations. The tea was deadly but his memories as he recounted the days of watching caravans along a portion of the Tea Horse Road head south into Bhutan, Nepal, and India were warm and clear. It was such memories that ensured that lifeblood remained in the tale of Tea Horse Road’s legacy. Portions of the physical route remain in small cobbled sections or mere pathways within Yunnan, Sichuan, and upon the Tibetan Plateau, but it is in the telling and listening to the tales that something flickers back to life. He, and his tea, relit some of those flickers.
Portait along the Tea Horse Road
Posted in Explorations, Mountains, Tea Horse Road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments Off on Tea Horse Road Chronicles – Way Out, and Out Again