Lobsang – On Water in the Himalayas

A morning of brittle cold that brought the eyes to a standstill in Darlag, southern Amdo. Lobsang watches while his two sons source ice from a nearby ‘lake’ to bring home to boil for morning tea. Lobsang asked me whether I would be photographing him, and when I responded that “yes, I wanted to”, he promptly left wiithout a word, leaving me in the morning cold, going back to his little homestead.

Lobsang all done up in a still morning cold that the Himalayas do very very well.

He emerged minutes later with a new chuba (long woollen robe) and a much more styling traditional Amdo fur cap. He then told me that I could photograph him however much I liked.
Lobsang spoke about water and the ‘health’ of the mountains in simple terms and how he hoped his sons didn’t have to worry about their homestead or water. He spoke about how every element was right there and that there wasn’t ever a time to really shut off of being aware…and thankful. He was a steward of the land in the purest sense of the word.

Lobsang’s two sons sit upon what will soon be melted water for tea

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Time with Tseten – Tea Horse Road Trader

We sat in the dark gloom of his home, with a bit of lukewarm butter tea roaming around our hands. Another of the remaining legends of the days of trade and odyssey journey-making along the Tea Horse Road, Tseten was slow but steady to warm of the times and tales of his time along the great trade route. One memory spoken would unhinge another, which would lead to more meandering tales.

It was like this with many of these remaining participants of life along the Tea Horse Road. Stories started slowly and triggered a memory strand that in turn would lead to another. Hours and days could pass uncoiling the past. Tseten was ill during a visit near my old home of ‘Gyalthang’ (aka: Shangrila, Zhongdian, Jiantang) in northwestern Yunnan, but it didn’t prevent his old engine of a heart to rise as we sat together.

The great expanses of the Himalayas remained prominent in most of his tales and how they instructed, wreaked havoc, and formed bonds. This route and the conversations around it and the times, almost inevitably sparked something epic in people as though travelling back into a rare time portal. It always had felt that the these participants of the route, had garnered some magic dust upon them that lasted. When asked if he would mind a portrait being taken, he nodded immediately and excused himself. He would come back a few minutes later having fixed himself up. He was ready and he was stunning.

Kham (Eastern Tibet), where so much of the history of the Tea Horse Road passed through…and remains

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Tseba, his Tea, and the Walk(s)

One of the most purpose-driven of walkers, Tseba, would prepare a kettle of butter tea every morning before leaving to circumambulate around Litang’s Chode monastery. No less than three rotations would ever be done and afternoons would often see Tseba back out with his mala beads in hand doing another three rounds. Not rain, hail, blasting sun, nor heaps of snow would ever prevent Tseba from his ritual rotations (nor his pre-ritual taking of tea) in this town of over 4,000 metres.

A contented Tseba post circumambulation and post butter tea

Litang was, for over a decade, one of the zones that I would inevitably find myself navigating to, and remaining in. A community of friends, relentless mountain forces, and a vital conduit point along the Sichuan-Tibet portion of the Tea Horse Road kept me wanting more and more time there. To arrive, whether by foot or vehicle, was always an entire body feel as the altitude began to tighten its  grip on the body.

A heightening of all senses was influenced by a particular type of air current and temperature drop, as though this set of elements were prerequisites to acknowledge where one was arriving to.

Some of my favourite people at the Litang Horse Festival, including Tseba at the far right

Tseba embodied much of what made the area compelling and unambiguous, and his butter tea offerings were no different. They were powerful, rich, stimulant liquids, that were as much a meal as they were anything else. Barley, salt, yak butter, desiccated tea leaves from Sichuan gardens leagues away, and even at times the addition of dried yak yoghurt balls, called chura could all, depending on his mood or the availability of these items, be found within a bowl.

Litang

Proudly Khampa, he remembered the region’s contributions to the Ancient Tea Horse Road. Caravans would pass through these vast nomadic spaces in western Sichuan, sometimes needing the assistance of ’traveling protection’ – nomads payed to accompany and protect both caravans and their participants from attack and thieves.
Many a time, we’d share a butter tea before heading out where I’d do a version of a scurry to keep up with Tseba as it has been years since I’ve been in his spaces.

Some of the bold landscapes of the Litang area, which mirrors some of its butter tea offerings

He often said that both his preferred teas and people had the same qualities: direct and having an impact. Whether he knew it or not, he perfectly personified both of those qualities…and I hope he does still.
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Tea Pot Travels – The 90 ml in Europe

It sits amidst 5 other clay pots that are used daily. The lid is never shut tight but rather it sits ajar on top of the little 90 ml tawny rough and unglazed tea pot – it is a little ‘note to self’ that it is a tea pot ‘in use’. It is alive and in the ‘present’ tense.

Getting some selection advice from my son

It was also the first piece of tea kit that was packed and wrapped up for a recent month-long journey. Since its acquisition 8 months ago, this particular vessel has been engaged and imbued with leaves in a non-stop flow of leaves and infusions. Its intended role was as an ‘everything-anytime’ pot – to be tucked away for journeys, used for a single jolting cup, or simply to gnaw away at the mornings in careful infusions. The caveat is that it is a meagre 90 ml volume size. In my own way of thinking though, it is the perfect ‘traveler’.

The 90 ml at the wait

For the actual journey, it got gently swathed and layered in a floral gauze from some unknown time and place and wrapped again in a small tannin-stained serviette before being carefully slotted into a sturdy round bit of molded black leather. In beside it, two glazed ‘traveler cups’ from the immaculate hands within the tiny tea hut and intentions of Lauryn Axelroad.

The trip to Europe and to spaces where olive oil, cheese, and wine dominated, and to where the origin points referred to beverages with bubbles and alcoholic percentages and not leaves, required a couple of tea pots to join. To travel with tea leaves, there is a need of vessels that both function and please in the simplest of ways.

The Naka cake (above) provided that needed blast, while the below Man Nang was the ‘comfort’ bit of palate love

The necessaries upon every single journey of a tea hound, require that vessels and leaves are chosen carefully with an eye to both desires and functionality. In this, I enlisted my son Sebastian into the mix…and I gently overruled when necessary.

In my case the leaves selected were three in origin points, and though all wer Sheng Puerh’s, they all had their own ‘place and time’. The selection of ‘which’ teas is straightforward, though deciding on amounts is anything but.

A 200 gram cake of powerful, broad-flavoured He kai old tree tea from 2020’s Spring harvest is chosen for its steadfast delivery of easy strength. Harvested from Man Nang village it is one of those teas that has sated with both its power and unambiguous finish of vegetal tang for long years, and it is one of the teas that has a familiar-ease-of-consumption about it – stable and predictable it is.

The second selection is a 200 gram cake of Spring 2021 Naka old tree (100 + years). A bit of brilliance it is on the palate. Fresh and almost throbbing with ‘qi’, it counts among my ‘teas that cannot disappoint’. The region’s ability to provide random bits of sumptuous unbridled strength on the palate and in the blood isn’t always a given…but it usually is. It is one of the regions that, with careful hands and consistent raw materials, can provide an offering that satiates and restores my very core. It is too, a tea that can ‘cut’ through a palate of pungent cheese without a problem. I know this well as the two are frequent partners on my palate journeys.

A third wedge of compressed and already-whittled down bit of cake, a Bulang Mountain Summer 2019 is also wrapped up for the journey. A little more settled and less vigorous, it is a ‘later-in-the-day’ tonic, that soothes the need for a subdued stimulant hit.

Years ago in Taiwan, an old friend’s father explained the idea of a tea pot’s “journey” in a way the clings still to the mind.

“It is a responsibility and a part of you. It provides for you whenever there is water, leaves, and time”.

I’ve always held onto those words and their vague irreverence to the idea of impermanence.

Within the Snow

This present 90 ml’s of wild clay from northern Taiwan which ends up travelling to all points unknown and known, the time and intention of the creator (Emilio del Pozo)…the idea too that each infusion of leaves, leave some vague micro-elements of themselves in the pot. All of these ‘things’ all contribute to the ‘journey’ and to the pot’s evolution.

Upon a bench along Lake Geneva…

The little clay one journeyed well with many a jet-lag-inspired 5am morning sessions in Venice, bringing in the muted light of mornings onto walls and tiles; afternoon restorative shots in Milan; to a park bench along Lake Geneva where I once roamed as a child with my live wire Hungarian grandmother (here, a ragingly strong dose of Naka was served up); and to a little snow dug-out high above Chamonix where the Bulang Summer offering hummed and layed claim to the view of the spine of snowy mountains stretched out to the horizons.

Filled with the Naka

The little 90 ml pot restored, brewed, aged, touched different water sources and ultimately returned from the journey enhanced and further appreciated. Vitally too, the contents that it brewed was shared. In many ways, its story has begun to collect and gather its little bits of time and place.

The sights

Journeys will continue with other leaves and destinations and hopefully the pot will have many stewards in its time.

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Omu, The Strong

Arriving to a new camp and homestead, Omu sets about going through an unending list of ‘musts’. One of the musts is securing tent ‘fly’ lines of twined yak wool, hammered into the high-altitude turf.

Using a stone picked up casually from the surroundings, Omu pounds homemade wooden pegs at an angle that she will adjust and modify over the coming months. Soon after the tent was erected, tea was served. She remarked once, “when we make our first tea in a place, we are settled”.


Though over the years I’ve spent months with her family, it is her that the community revolved around and it was her that I marvelled at for all of the vital roles she occupied within her family. It was she and her quiet husband Ajo who decided when to move and when to allow the yak to dictate the journey to more luscious grazing and it was Omu who ‘felt’ when the seasons were shifting, precipitating a move of her tented household.

It was she too who cared for and understood the yak, it was she who prepared meals, and it was she who prepared tea daily in huge, rich doses. It was her too that was dared not defied. Her two sons and a nephew knew better than anyone that her words and intentions stood.

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Dolma, the Titan

Over the course of a decade of repeated visits to a nomadic community and little Dolma’s clan near Litang, I would continuously be in awe of the ’nomadic ways’ of doing simply anything. Moving up to a half dozen times a year, her family of eight would follow their yak herds on their never ending journey to follow the grazing path.

Almost never would I leave the community without at least a few injuries sustained from little Dolma’s ‘play’. Fiercely devoted to her little brother and sister (in a clan of 6 children), she was also a little warrior, able and willing to engage in breathtaking runs over the 4200 metre plains to chase me down and pummel me. Dolma was fully capable of fighting with her hands and teeth…a skill she told me that she learned from the Tibetan Mastiffs which guarded her homestead.

She was one of the ’tea makers’ in-waiting in her home, being taught by her mother the practice of making ‘bo ja’, the churned butter tea of extraordinary pungency. One of the mighty characters I wonder about often. Dolma loved the little flowers that grew in Spring near her encampments, picking them carefully before throwing them high into the winds and letting them settle, before repeating.
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Leaf Journeys, Leaf Ageing, and the Heights

It was upon the months’ long journeys along the Tea Horse Road that the big-leafed ‘assamica’ material and eternal panacea, tea, would transform and morph from a simple green tea into an almost compost-like blend that many Tibetans began to prefer for their famed churned butter tea, bo-ja.

 Wrapped in skins, bamboo cylinders, bark, and formed into squares and mushroom shaped compressed bodies, teas that began their journeys as simple ‘green’ teas would emerge months later in the Himalayan markets significantly altered. Proximity to the body heat of pack animals, rises and drops in altitude and temperatures, and time itself all contributed to a vegetal transformation.
Leaves gained in value as they gained in pungency along the trails, with the journeys and efforts only adding to their lustre. The transporters and traders too – the precious and rugged beings who ushered the leaves through the spires and along the mountain corridors, would rise to become legends.
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A Tea Comes Around

The joy of a bit of time-hit leaf beauty. Age hasn’t always been something I’ve ever been convinced matters in any tea. Age of bushes, of trees, or even of the producer maybe, but age of the cake or how many (apparent) decades a Puerh has been ‘aging’ hasn’t mattered. The sometimes incessant rambling on about certain harvests from eons past or the apparent worth of a particular label has sounded somewhat like a method of adding value to an offering that needs value added. In the words of Mr. Li a tea buyer, “Lose the informality of the tea moment, lose the enjoyment of a well made tea – even briefly – and then we are talking about something other than tea. Some people now sip and speak a lot but don’t seem to enjoy the actual tea”. Sometimes all of the hype and wording defiles some of the actual ‘taking’ of the tea.

Uncertain storage, vacillating humidity levels, uncertain origin, ambiguous raw materials all seem at times to need the addition of ‘age’ to make it worth some of the utterly nutty price points. Exceptions are the wonderful counterbalance to all. Add to this the whole realm of subjective perception, palate preferences, and water quality, and one gets a whole realm of ‘influencers’.

A forgotten clay urn of stock of Summer 2010 tea from old Ban Po village on Nannuo Village was recently re-investigated after years of adjectives like “ferocious after taste”, “too much” and “reckless” being used when I did tastings.

Dry stored with plenty of air allowed to circulate over the course of a couple of homesteads, the tea itself never seemed to ‘ease’ off. A loose leaf purchased and made by an old friend’s family it was a 2kg buy of tea that I saw plucked, withered, fried, and dried in front of me. It was a brutal in any tea session since and in hindsight it wasn’t a carefully or well produced batch, but it was superb raw materials. Well, the “reckless” one has come of age gently in a sympathetic pot and all of those images and smells are suddenly back and clear with the taking of this tea.

A little session recently with those leaves having come around and softened slightly set off memories of the maker, the roar of cicadas in the forests, his home, and his tea frying pans. They all came closer in the mind as the tea suddenly appealed. The leaves have eased off and the edges have become deep mineral wells that hit the palate like a tonic and their journey continues.
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The Tea Sessions – Latest Column Piece – “Karma’s Chai”

Few mortals provide (and have provided) as much leaf pleasure as the immortal Karma. Over years and expeditions, he has alchemized his fierce brews at thousands of metres high, on cliffs, glaciers, and in snow blown Himalayan camps. Within his green ‘kitchen” tent, Karma has restored and rebalanced entire teams all while a tender stream of golden age Bollywood classics wafts from his phone. It is to him and his teas (and high altitude apple pies made from lentil flower) that I’ve long deferred. My latest tribute and column, “The Tea Sessions” is dedicated to Karma and his chai elixirs.

Time with my guru within that little green tent of delights

An entire documentary film should probably made on Karma’s culinary skills within his tent sitting cross-legged and murmuring about life. A legend.

Link to full article here.

Karma’s chai that has fuelled many an expedition

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Pomo – The Girl Who Could Do It All

‘Cheshi’ in the early morning in her family’s nomadic camp of Shin’zhu’gong at close to 5000 metres. I continually messed up her name, though I spent weeks with her and family. She patiently dealt with me until she reminded me firmly that her name was ‘Ajie’, and not Cheshi, who was her sister. Her roles in the family spanned anything to do with yak, assisting with butter making, and creating yarn out of yak wool. She was also singularly capable of doing absolutely anything in her little rubber boots that were some shade of purple. Climbing, running, riding yak, collecting fuel for the every present fire…all was done with her little rubber boots wobbling around her little ankles, sloshing about. One of the tasks she wasn’t quite allowed to undertake was the churned butter tea preparation. That sacred task was left to her equally magnificent mother, Lashi. Ajie’s early morning risings were much like mine…slow without a lot of chatter. She needed time for her blood and mind to ease into the day and detested being rushed. The region had played host to nomadic caravans carrying Himalayan herbs, tea, salt, and the coveted silk aprons (called ‘pom’den’) from further east in Lhasa. The word Pomo means girl or young woman in Tibetan.
 
Litang, Kham, western Sichuan
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