Tribute Photos to a Year of Tea and Mountains – 7

More of the precious from 2015. A final Ascent…An End and the New Beginnings

A morning snow, A Lao Banzhang Leaf, A Mountain Steward, A timeless Trader, and A Tea Mantra for all-time.

Camp Bharal. Our 4,635-metre base camp rests in an small valley surrounded by snow peaks and powerful serenity. Within those peaks the rare Bharal (Blue Sheep) wander and graze, and when they are present, their ancient hunters, the snow leopard, can be found. Our horseman, who knew these valleys well, commented, "The 'Shan' (snow leopard) are always there, looking down at us. If they want us to see them, we shall see them, otherwise not. They are not vain." Every afternoon and dusk we would look up wondering if just maybe, we would be gifted a view.

Camp Bharal. Our 4,635-metre base camp rests in an small valley surrounded by snow peaks and powerful serenity. Within those peaks the rare Bharal (Blue Sheep) wander and graze, and when they are present, their ancient hunters, the snow leopard, can be found. Our horseman, who knew these valleys well, commented, “The ‘Shan’ (snow leopard) are always there, looking down at us. If they want us to see them, we shall see them, otherwise not. They are not vain.” Every afternoon and dusk we would look up wondering if just maybe, we would be gifted a view.

Kamal: Mountain Steward. A 12-hour day that scorched the body and numbed the brain finished as most days did: with me sitting in the tent with tea beside Kamal flashing that grin of his, telling all that everything was utterly well in our little world. Kamal, another utterly steady presence and steward of the mountains frequently answered questions with some refreshing mountain honesty: "I don't know, but soon I will know". Born and bred in the mountains he could never imagine leaving their peaks and shadows, telling me with an earnest face that cities "confuse me". Kamal and I spent an afternoon perched on sluice of glacier ice eating nuts and dried fruit, watching the ice run down under a punishing sun, and speaking about aspirations. When I asked for what the mountains meant to him, he thought a moment or two and then responded with a smile, "They are everything". They are. Protect environment, you protect culture...they are inextricably linked.

Kamal: Mountain Steward. A 12-hour day that scorched the body and numbed the brain finished as most days did: with me sitting in the tent with tea beside Kamal flashing that grin of his, telling all that everything was utterly well in our little world. Kamal, another utterly steady presence and steward of the mountains frequently answered questions with some refreshing mountain honesty: “I don’t know, but soon I will know”. Born and bred in the mountains he could never imagine leaving their peaks and shadows, telling me with an earnest face that cities “confuse me”. Kamal and I spent an afternoon perched on sluice of glacier ice eating nuts and dried fruit, watching the ice run down under a punishing sun, and speaking about aspirations. When I asked for what the mountains meant to him, he thought a moment or two and then responded with a smile, “They are everything”. They are. Protect environment, you protect culture…they are inextricably linked. 

Banzhang Leaf. A minimum in so many ways on this tribute but notable nonetheless. This was the seminal bundle of tea leaves consumed for the year. A single 9 gram serving - shared with fellow sipper Frank - of Banzhang raw 2008 old tree leaves harvested and produced by my mentor Mr. Gau of the Hani people. Unsprayed, the trees are allowed to grow unrestrained. Centuries of clean growth have allowed these trees to become forests of stimulant green power. Several of us had built up to the taking of this tea, knowing it would be something special. Afternoon in southern Yunnan's dull heat, tucked into a tea shop, we at last prepared several infusions. Sometimes expectation is the killer of moments, but this tea was narcotic from beginning to end. A tea grower once said that to sip a tea one "needs to know the source and the hands that created it". This tea's story seeped in as the fluid's raw force did.

Banzhang Leaf. A minimum in so many ways on this tribute but notable nonetheless. This was the seminal bundle of tea leaves consumed for the year. A single 9 gram serving – shared with fellow sipper Frank – of Banzhang raw 2008 old tree leaves harvested and produced by my mentor Mr. Gau of the Hani people. Unsprayed, the trees are allowed to grow unrestrained. Centuries of clean growth have allowed these trees to become forests of stimulant green power. Several of us had built up to the taking of this tea, knowing it would be something special. Afternoon in southern Yunnan’s dull heat, tucked into a tea shop, we at last prepared several infusions. Sometimes expectation is the killer of moments, but this tea was narcotic from beginning to end. A tea grower once said that to sip a tea one “needs to know the source and the hands that created it”. This tea’s story seeped in as the fluid’s raw force did.

Dakpa Kongba. Tea and salt trader, living tomb of memories, and warm host of tea sessions in the glorious Mustang region of Nepal, Dakpa's time with us reminded that communication is about taking time to listen. Sitting with him, sipping tea for hours and interviewing him about the days of caravans of tea, it felt as though I'd reached a home of sorts where everything was clear. Shooting a documentary film about the Tea Horse Road we had in Dakpa, a being that was the embodiment of the mountain spirit of endeavour and authenticity. He was real and his warmth entirely something of the blood. Sharing time and tea with him was an honour. His smile upon being presented with a cake of tea stirred us all, stirs me still.

Dakpa Kongba. Tea and salt trader, living tomb of memories, and warm host of tea sessions in the glorious Mustang region of Nepal, Dakpa’s time with us reminded that communication is about taking time to listen. Sitting with him, sipping tea for hours and interviewing him about the days of caravans of tea, it felt as though I’d reached a home of sorts where everything was clear. Shooting a documentary film about the Tea Horse Road we had in Dakpa, a being that was the embodiment of the mountain spirit of endeavour and authenticity. He was real and his warmth entirely something of the blood. Sharing time and tea with him was an honour. His smile upon being presented with a cake of tea stirred us all, stirs me still.

Nomadic Tea Mantra. In the Himalayas there is a long repeated mantra about tea's eternal worth to the residents. "If a cup of tea isn't offered, a relationship isn't offered". Succinct and clear about the vital nature of both tea and relationships in the highest of highlands. The same can be said for homes, warmth, and generosity. Nothing is restrained from the weary traveller, the fellow being in the mountains where to function and thrive one must cooperate. This woman's home was opened to us to share warmth, time, and of course tea, and the idea of this is something magnificent. As much as this image is documenting a woman, it is also reflecting that moment of warmth and sharing in a world of thin-aired beauty. To her and that notion continuing on.

Nomadic Tea Mantra. In the Himalayas there is a long repeated mantra about tea’s eternal worth to the residents. “If a cup of tea isn’t offered, a relationship isn’t offered”. Succinct and clear about the vital nature of both tea and relationships in the highest of highlands. The same can be said for homes, warmth, and generosity. Nothing is restrained from the weary traveller, the fellow being in the mountains where to function and thrive one must cooperate. This woman’s home was opened to us to share warmth, time, and of course tea, and the idea of this is something magnificent. As much as this image is documenting a woman, it is also reflecting that moment of warmth and sharing in a world of thin-aired beauty. To her and that notion continuing on.

Two gents who along with a stack of tea, a will to document what remains of the greatest trade route on the planet, and an empathy with the mountains and their tales made 2015 huge in my world. Andrew Gregg and Michael Josselyn and I shot footage, documented tales, and took in snow passes along the Tea Horse Road for over a month beginning in southern Yunnan's ancient tea forests, over the Himalayas and ending up in Kathmandu for the feature documentary, The Tea Explorer. Friends, fellow sippers of the leaf and ultimately those who shared in some magnificent moments together. Couldn't have asked for two better souls on this project. This to them with a bow of thanks...and a slap!

Two gents who along with a stack of tea, a will to document what remains of the greatest trade route on the planet, and an empathy with the mountains and their tales made 2015 huge in my world. Andrew Gregg and Michael Josselyn and I shot footage, documented tales, and took in snow passes along the Tea Horse Road for over a month beginning in southern Yunnan’s ancient tea forests, over the Himalayas and ending up in Kathmandu for the feature documentary, The Tea Explorer. Friends, fellow sippers of the leaf and ultimately those who shared in some magnificent moments together. Couldn’t have asked for two better souls on this project. This to them with a bow of thanks…and a slap!

Thanks for joining and another great year of sips of green and ascents of stone to come.

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Tribute Photos to a Year of Tea and Mountains – 6

Magnificent Raju, an old friend, and landscapes that are tortured and utterly narcotic. The Mountains’ and their people and spaces that moved the blood in 2015.

One of the great characters of the mountains, Raju. Porter, spirit of optimism despite everything, and now friend, he and his morning wake up of "rammm, rammm" (something that shepherds use in the mountains to urge their sheep on). Relentless, this father of 2 girls was my morning smile on the Glacier's Breath expedition.

One of the great characters of the mountains, Raju. Porter, spirit of optimism despite everything, and now friend, he and his morning wake up of “rammm, rammm” (something that shepherds use in the mountains to urge their sheep on). Relentless, this father of 2 girls was my morning smile on the Glacier’s Breath expedition.

Drolma from Litang welcomed a team of us to her home for fire and tea...the utter essentials. Thirteen years have turned her into a woman who hasn't forgotten the importance of knowing why her lands and traditions are important.

Drolma from Litang welcomed a team of us to her home for fire and tea…the utter essentials. Thirteen years have turned her into a woman who hasn’t forgotten the importance of knowing why her lands and traditions are important. Her home in the mountains, Litang, is one of the highest altitude cities in the world at over 4,200 metres.

Morning glory hits peaks. With Karma's potent and ritualistic ginger tea in hand the day comes in and etches itself into the mind. Looking south out of the Bara Shigri Valley, where our camp upon the ice and moraine was part of 2015's Glacier's Breath expedition.

Morning glory hits mountains. With Karma’s potent and ritualistic ginger tea in hand the day comes in and etches itself into the mind. Looking south out of the Bara Shigri Valley, where our camp upon the ice and moraine was part of 2015’s Glacier’s Breath expedition.

 

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Tribute Photos to a Year of Tea and Mountains – 5

Owing to Hector the Brave’s popularity and the debt to which our ‘Glacier’s Breath’ Expedition owes his efforts, a video in honour of our little friend in the mountains.

 Hector here.

Hector and I share a morning moment.

Hector and I share a morning moment.

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Tribute Photos to a Year of Tea and Mountains – 4

Continued Tributes:

A Father

After feeding us in his home, this Tibetan man went over to his son who was our guide, and briefly touched his arm. They hadn't seen each other for months and the gesture wasn't at all dramatic but it buzzed the air with its intensity. Father simply put his palm on his son Tenzin's forearm. They barely looked at one another but they were linked by a huge bond and that little moment was golden for it was an acknowledgement. When we left, the man (who wore the classic "jagar shamoo" - 'Indian hat' of eastern Tibet) took a deep breath when watching his son take his leave, with what seemed like pride and sadness all at once. Another mountain moment that remains fresh, though it was almost a year ago.

After feeding us in his home, this Tibetan man went over to his son who was our guide, and briefly touched his arm. They hadn’t seen each other for months and the gesture wasn’t at all dramatic but it buzzed the air with its intensity. Father simply put his palm on his son Tenzin’s forearm. They barely looked at one another but they were linked by a huge bond and that little moment was golden for it was an acknowledgement. When we left, the man (who wore the classic “jagar shamoo” – ‘Indian hat’ of eastern Tibet) took a deep breath when watching his son take his leave, with what seemed like pride and sadness all at once. Another mountain moment that remains fresh, though it was almost a year ago.

Hector the Brave. Little Hector who only wanted love from his fellow pack animals and to be with our group, looks straight into the lens. At times the depth of the snow would lodge little Hector and his goods. His little legs struggled to find traction until someone from the team would dig him out and help him along. My morning ritual involved wandering out of the tent to find him and give him some snacks and love. Then, one morning I discovered Karma doing the same. Little Hector was living well indeed and I miss his stubborn spunk, and his seesaw cries every evening. I could easily write a piece on this epic little character. Honoured to have travelled with you!

Hector the Brave. Little Hector who only wanted love from his fellow pack animals and to be with our group, looks straight into the lens. At times the depth of the snow would lodge little Hector and his goods. His little legs struggled to find traction until someone from the team would dig him out and help him along. My morning ritual involved wandering out of the tent to find him and give him some snacks and love. Then, one morning I discovered Karma doing the same. Little Hector was living well indeed and I miss his stubborn spunk, and his seesaw cries every evening. I could easily write a piece on this epic little character. Honoured to have travelled with you!

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Tribute Photos to a Year of Tea and Mountains – 3

More of the valued faces, moments, and impacts of the year. Many more existed that are shown here but these few are worthy in so many ways.

"Why have you come all this way to these lands. How did you arrive"? Our little team burrowed into this warm woman's home that she shared with her ailing husband near Yading in western Sichuan Province. Within minutes this family who had little shared everything they had, and this woman Kersang proceeded to ask questions as though she knew that many outside mysteries would be revealed in this fleeting moment. She laughed and apologized for the acrid smoke being puffed out by her little stove and she spoke about the land. "It is all we have so we must care for it. It is family". I'd never heard this reference before, but imagine a world where her logic of the land being family prevailed.

“Why have you come all this way to these lands. How did you arrive”? Our little team burrowed into this warm woman’s home that she shared with her ailing husband near Yading in western Sichuan Province. Within minutes this family who had little shared everything they had, and this woman Kersang proceeded to ask questions as though she knew that many outside mysteries would be revealed in this fleeting moment. She laughed and apologized for the acrid smoke being puffed out by her little stove and she spoke about the land. “It is all we have so we must care for it. It is family”. I’d never heard this reference before, but imagine a world where her logic of the land being family prevailed.

Faces and their own landscapes gave way to spaces of stone and snow.

Dusk comes in cold, golden rays near our camp on the Bara Shigri glacier in October. One of Asia's longest glaciers, it is a boulder-strewn landscape of steep ascents rather than simply a space of graceful ice flows and brilliantine blue. It is a brutal landscape that is morphing in the present tense. Ice here is gigantic, rubble covered and in perpetual flow rather than anything crystalline and delicate. It is a body in decay that is liquefying and morphing from something solid into something vital yet temporary; ice into water. Behind me as I watch this day's closure, Karma tinkers with dinner and an 'aperitif' of tea, while layers of down warmth are applied. Cold arrives from everywhere at once when the sun disappears. Mountains remain one of Nature's perfect editors and tutors.

Dusk comes in cold, golden rays near our camp on the Bara Shigri glacier in October. One of Asia’s longest glaciers, it is a boulder-strewn landscape of steep ascents rather than simply a space of graceful ice flows and brilliantine blue. It is a brutal landscape that is morphing in the present tense. Ice here is gigantic, rubble covered and in perpetual flow rather than anything crystalline and delicate. It is a body in decay that is liquefying and morphing from something solid into something vital yet temporary; ice into water. Behind me as I watch this day’s closure, Karma tinkers with dinner and an ‘aperitif’ of tea, while layers of down warmth are applied. Cold arrives from everywhere at once when the sun disappears. Mountains remain one of Nature’s perfect editors and tutors.

And spaces of stone and snow gave way to the face and hands

Day 8 of Tributes: The Incense Maker. In the walled city of Lo Mantang, Nepal this woman could be found in any number of places sitting on a folded rug pounding herbs with a stone into the basics of incense. Mornings she pounded, afternoons she pounded...as though her task would never end. Sitting, oblivious to the cold, she would spread out the intact herbs, place some into a centuries' old recess in the stone and ground the elements with a worn stone. Smells would waft up and be passed around by the winds, so that we would know that she was close before we would see her. Though incense can be found in any shop, it was as though she was proving that the old ways were the only ways. Her hands were stained, powerful, and pieces of beauty.

The Incense Maker. In the walled city of Lo Mantang, Nepal this woman could be found in any number of places sitting on a folded rug pounding herbs with a stone into the basics of incense. Mornings she pounded, afternoons she pounded…as though her task would never end. Sitting, oblivious to the cold, she would spread out the intact herbs, place some into a centuries’ old recess in the stone and ground the elements with a worn stone. Smells would waft up and be passed around by the winds, so that we would know that she was close before we would see her. Though incense can be found in any shop, it was as though she was proving that the old ways were the only ways. Her hands were stained, powerful, and pieces of beauty.

And to ice which disappears…something solid into water

A magnificent wall of ice that rises like a vertical patterned sketchbook on our 'Glacier's Breath' expedition. Sitting just scanning its mass, one could make out the tinkling sound of water and as the day's sun rose that tinkle became torrents. That sound became one of the most ominous noises in my head as it is the solid ice become liquid. That liquid would in turn become part of the Chandra River, which by extension would exit into Bay of Bengal. It would become what comes out of pipes and faucets downstream. Friend and mountain guide Kamal and I sat watching this mass with its ever-increasing rivulets plunging downward. Kamal said in his quiet way, "I understand what you are worried about. Once it is gone, it is gone". Indeed.

A magnificent wall of ice that rises like a vertical patterned sketchbook on our ‘Glacier’s Breath’ expedition. Sitting just scanning its mass, one could make out the tinkling sound of water and as the day’s sun rose that tinkle became torrents. That sound became one of the most ominous noises in my head as it is the solid ice become liquid. That liquid would in turn become part of the Chandra River, which by extension would exit into Bay of Bengal. It would become what comes out of pipes and faucets downstream. Friend and mountain guide Kamal and I sat watching this mass with its ever-increasing rivulets plunging downward. Kamal said in his quiet way, “I understand what you are worried about. Once it is gone, it is gone”. Indeed.

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Tribute Photos to a Year of Tea and Mountains – 2

A continuing of the epic characters, moments, and spaces of the past years in no particular order along with the requisite captions. To continue until the end of 2015…

Biari of the mountains is one of those whose words are reverent, tangible and entirely authentic. Having tended sheep in the Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh, his observations are based upon living every moment within them. Intuition and an intimacy makes his thoughts and words those worth listening to. Our expedition team sat with him while he spoke of the mountains' "health". Sipping tea on a brittle morning he reminded us that what happens in the mountains, will inevitably affect the worlds further down. 55 of his 63 years have been spent in the valleys of the Chandra River watching wolves, blizzards, and sun rays touch his life.

Biari of the mountains is one of those whose words are reverent, tangible and entirely authentic. Having tended sheep in the Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh, his observations are based upon living every moment within them. Intuition and an intimacy makes his thoughts and words those worth listening to. Our expedition team sat with him while he spoke of the mountains’ “health”. Sipping tea on a brittle morning he reminded us that what happens in the mountains, will inevitably affect the worlds further down. 55 of his 63 years have been spent in the valleys of the Chandra River watching wolves, blizzards, and sun rays touch his life.

One of the gentle but stirring moments was being hosted by a semi-nomadic family in western Sichuan. Their world was one of yak, of fire, and of winds. No part of their lives was untouched by this triumvirate of elements. Known for a ferocity in battle and a piousness of spirit, the Kham'pa's of eastern Tibet were feared and revered in equal measure throughout the Tibetan Plateau. Unafraid to move and wander they left their mark genetically, economically, and culturally across the expanse of the Himalayas. A simple and understated moment brought into quick focus by our hosts' face.

One of the gentle but stirring moments was being hosted by a semi-nomadic family in western Sichuan. Their world was one of yak, of fire, and of winds. No part of their lives was untouched by this triumvirate of elements. Known for a ferocity in battle and a piousness of spirit, the Kham’pa’s of eastern Tibet were feared and revered in equal measure throughout the Tibetan Plateau. Unafraid to move and wander they left their mark genetically, economically, and culturally across the expanse of the Himalayas. A simple and understated moment brought into quick focus by our hosts’ face.

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Tribute Photos to a Year of Tea and Mountains

Decided that there must be some way to pay some tribute to the faces, spaces, and leaves that have inspired either by wonderful force, or by gentle ways in the past year. It is also a way of saying thank you.

The best way, I think, is simply to post a series of images and brief posts in the final days of this, 2015. People who mentor, inspire, and those who simply go about doing what they do so well; or landscapes and tea leaves that conjure and stimulate, this is a series of tributes to those (and those things) who’ve moved and inspired in this last year.

So, this is the first of a series of posts that celebrate inspiration in whatever form it came in the past year…with the very necessary captions.

Inspiration in whatever form it comes, is still inspiration.

One of the year's inspirational moments took place amidst bristling winds (where so much inspiration seems to come from for me) at close to 5,000 metres. Nothing dramatic...simply a nomadic elder laying her yak cheese atop her roof to dry. Sustained by gritty DNA and their sacred pashmina goats these people are the quintessential nomads. The Karnak people have continued to defy much of the modern world's attentions...and they do it well.

One of the year’s inspirational moments took place amidst bristling winds (where so much inspiration seems to come from for me) at close to 5,000 metres. Nothing dramatic…simply a nomadic elder laying her yak cheese atop her roof to dry. Sustained by gritty DNA and their sacred pashmina goats these people are the quintessential nomads. The Karnak people have continued to defy much of the modern world’s attentions…and they do it well. They understand the land, the elements and pay tribute to the very simple aspects of the world in which they inhabit.

Though perhaps lacking some of the intense spectacle of the nomadic woman, this photo represents an equivalent value to me. Karma, who seems to defy every title, is quite simply one of the Himalayas' great mentors. Horse whisperer, cook without equal, tea-maker-at-all-times-of-day-and-night, healer, and reader of the mountains' every breath he is one of my essentials on every expeditions that I can manage. Gentle soul and good friend as well I'm proud to say.

Though perhaps lacking some of the intense spectacle of the nomadic woman, this photo represents an equivalent value to me. Karma, who seems to defy every title, is quite simply one of the Himalayas’ great mentors. Horse whisperer, cook without equal, tea-maker-at-all-times-of-day-and-night, healer, and reader of the mountains’ every breath, he is one of my essentials on every expedition that I can manage. Gentle soul and good friend as well I’m proud to say.

 

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The Tea Explorer – Documentary Film

Movie Trailer here: The Tea Explorer

The last month and a bit have been spent contentedly and sometimes manically slurping back tea, humping it over snow passes and sitting with the treasured elders who still recall the days when tea (and salt, wool, and so many other commodities) travelled by caravan.

Churned Tibetan tea: butter, salt, stewed tea leaves all coerced into a potent 'meal'.

Churned Tibetan tea: butter, salt, stewed tea leaves all coerced into a potent ‘meal’.

Award-Winning filmmaker Andrew Gregg of 90th Parallel, the incomparable and newly tea-addicted Michael Josselyn and I – after years of plotting and preparing – embarked on a journey to create a film (and experience) a tribute to tea, the tea routes through the sky, and to the spirit of the people who were a part of the 13-Centuries of unending tea trade into the Himalayas.

A Hani elder from southern Yunnan hand-makes a tea basket.

A Hani elder from southern Yunnan hand-makes a tea basket.

The film, The Tea Explorer is set for a ‘fluid’ release in 2016. During a reconnaissance trip in 2014, Andrew looked incredulous at many points, remarking how “this whole part of the world was driven by tea”…and it was and still is to a great degree.

The crew atop Shola Pass. Route of Pilgrims, brigands, traders, and migrants, the Tea Horse Road pre-dates the Silk Road and was an entirely 'Asian' adventure.

The crew atop Shola Pass. Route of Pilgrims, brigands, traders, and migrants, the Tea Horse Road pre-dates the Silk Road and was an entirely ‘Asian’ adventure.

Sub-tropic tea forests of southern Yunnan, which have long provided the sumptuous leaves for caravans to export, gave way to rampant tea-high’s of buzzing sweats, which in turn gave way to sacred white snow passes in the sky.

Along for our journey, Sonam: mountain goat, comedian, and channeling conduit for old stuff.

Along for our journey, Sonam: mountain goat, comedian, and channeling conduit for old stuff.

It has led us through the Himalayas, down the Kali Gandaki valley of Mustang to here, the old trade capital of Kathmandu. Regardless of the petrol embargo, and the still tenuous tectonic situation, the city (and the country) still hums with energy and light.

Andrew (left) and Mike at peace (and tea) in Lo Manthang, Upper Mustang, Nepal.

Andrew (left) and Mike at peace (and tea) in Lo Manthang, Upper Mustang, Nepal.

“Tea was everything and everywhere and without it the Himalayas wouldn’t be what they are”, said Himalayan hard-man, scribe and trader Tenzin. I would only expand that Asia wouldn’t be what it is either without the unending flow of the leaf.

It was through valleys like the epic Gali Kandaki valley that tea, salt and wool caravans travelled

It was through valleys like the epic Kali Gandaki in Upper Mustang that tea, salt and wool caravans travelled

Along the way, we were gifted with company and words of old mountain hands Sonam Gelek and Dakpa Kelden, tea dealer to my leafy addiction Mei, and to the bulletproof legend of trade Konga Dakpa. Fuelled by tea, the journey has briefly given a flicker of life to the ancient Himalayan corridors and ushered in some deserved credit for being one of the great adventures of time.

Trade route, pilgrimage path, migration highway and eternal trail through the sky, the Tea Horse Road predates the Silk Road

Trade route, pilgrimage path, migration highway and eternal trail through the sky, the Tea Horse Road predated the Silk Road

Updates and sips to be shared.

Nothing is quite complete with a few sips. Photo courtesy of Andrew Gregg.

Nothing is quite complete without a few sips. Photo courtesy of Andrew Gregg.

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Glacier Melt – Nomad Streams

The long ridgeline of sediment and stone from a glacier has made a wall beside our trail. Known as an esker it is a thing of power and sculpted magnificence. Accelerating – and then retreating glaciers – have left stone and deposits of sand and grey as some of the only evidence of their wanderings.

It is such lakes (calm as they might appear) that often develop into danger lakes that have the ability to burst sending a vertical tsunami downwards.

It is such lakes (calm as they might appear) that often develop into danger lakes that have the ability to burst sending a vertical tsunami downwards.

We are leaving Bara Shigri after days of camping upon its multitude of sounds, sheets of ice and sediment tones. Weather has thrown too many hints to remain. Debra remains upbeat and more vitally, with each new pain or discomfort she recovers and it is this recovery that in time tells all of us that she will be fine. Recovery and not necessarily comfort is the vital sign that altitude has not taken too huge a toll.

Meltwater sits in pools beneath ice

Meltwater sits in pools beneath ice

I’m a little dull having to leave the vast expanse of crumbling ice and moraine. This glacier is one in perpetual flux, and one in perpetual melt it seems and leaving it in its present form seems somehow a kind of cop out, though there isn’t anything that can physically hold up this world of ice. I wonder what will transpire in the coming seasons. So few come to this valley of moraine. It is only one of many long bodies of ice that need attention.

Glacier - Journey

One of the small sadness’s from our days upon the glacier is the realization that with each ringing “crack”, or crumbling wall and with each rumbling landslide something is lost disappearing for good. Every ice block that falls or cringes into water is forever transformed into water.

Glacier - Water

The porters meet our planned descent with approval as the headman Rajesh is worried about what comes from the sky above. He worries as we all do of snow.

We will leave this valley that is so hidden and cold and we’ll head into equally desolate lands where the human element is present.

Drying rivers leave silt and sand to be blown high into the mountains creating their own landscapes

Drying rivers leave silt and sand to be blown high into the mountains creating their own landscapes

Two very long and stagnant descent days later, and having said a brief farewell to our porters we exit off the main road to Leh and go off road in search of a community that is one of three remote valleys. Being jammed into a vehicle after such freedom is strangely not relieving in any form. We are seeking the Karnak people who are one of the small remaining communities that keep to the nomadic way of life. We must now search for their winter dwellings of stone and it is a fixed camp I’ve not been to. Even these intensely rugged people need walls for the intense winter worlds at 4600 metres.

The Karnak's winter camp

The Karnak’s winter camp

Our first stop to find them leads us to a tucked away valley I’d been to previously. Nothing remains though of them but wind and stone structures. We have missed them and they have moved even deeper into the folds. The Karnak and other nomadic groups are a wonderful counterpoint to what we think of in terms of water usage. They need it yes, but use just a fraction of what most two-legged ones mortals do.

Glacier - Pashmina

We do eventually find them and their square stone structures. The acrid narcotic fumes of yak and goat dung being burned waft through the winds even with the temperatures below freezing. It is another valley ironically further away from the main road, further away from others.

Glacier - Nomads

Welcoming by the locals is not garish but it is warm. We are offered a small plot for our tents and it seems appropriate that we are lodged beside a newly installed pump and a silver stream of glacier water that still putters its way downwards.

Small though this community is, they have a vital commodity which still holds much commercial worth: pashmina. The small pashmina goats along with sheep, yak and errant dogs make up the four-legged population. A small nunnery and its accompanying – and very simple – set of stone huts and meditation caves lie further back in the valley.

An elder pumps water

An elder pumps water

There is very little to stop winds (and with it the cold) from crushing into the body and it is better to either drink loads of hot tea or simply keep moving. Flecks of hard ice are errantly blowing into every surface of this little community.

Where Bara Shigri is sheer – but isolated – ice-born space, this valley has the human touch (and in this case a welcome human touch). But the cold here is ratcheted up and the wind and air carry a deep current that penetrates fabric, bones, and the psyche alike. The local dogs have a sniff and as always Karma’s presence seems to beckon to them as well. A mangy rust coloured mix has my attention as he is a clever combination of charmer and enforcer. He establishes himself as our local host and will not tolerate any other dogs coming near us. I find out later that Karma had slipped him a treat thereby solidifying his claim to our company.

Glacier - Nomad

Here water (called “chu”) is everything. It is the base of cooking, of washing, it provides for the animals and its presence is one of the essentials for any camp. Locals do not soil their precious community. There are no faucets here but rather running streams sourced by mountain springs in some cases, and higher mountain glaciers in most. The spring melts enhance the grazing and the cycle continues. Though tucked into a valley we are at 4,600 metres and high above us peaks and ridgelines lie capped in white. Gravity and heat do the rest but even locals mention that they are seeing a change in the snow and ice. Again by “change” it isn’t as though the nomads with more than a thousand years of moving and migrating haven’t become used to every scenario of change. It is the speed in which things are changing and their fear of not being able to adapt to these changes that concerns.

Glacier - Nomad

An elder woman comes by often to our tent from the community. Variously she slurps Karma’s teas, offers to sell us Kullu (yak wool) hand loomed carpets, or simply watch what we’re up to. She also comes by to use the pump for water, even though just metres away is the fresh stream water. When I ask why she uses it, the simply nomad logic is immediate, “It is there so I should use it”.

When pumping, it usually takes a few empty pumps of the arm before water comes but it does come. According to her it was put in in the last year though I see in our few days with the Karnak people only this woman using the pump. All of the others move straight to the stream to collect water or wash.

I try to locate nomads using photos I previously took. All but one were found

I try to locate nomads using photos I previously took. All but one were found

The local Karnak dress in layers of wool, cotton, with more wool wrapped on top. Heads – and in the afternoon winds – and faces are covered to protect against wind and dust. Hands are seldom covered as they remain vital tools even with the winter’s pending arrival.

When I ask the village headman about remaining in the nomadic fold, he is optimistic and we find out that there are now subsidies from local levels of government that are payed to the nomads. It seems that they will encourage these people of the land to remain if they wish. Our local elder woman who hangs around our camp reminds me later that “We know this land so we should stay”.

Nomadic Yoghurt (called 'who') is traditionally served to guests.

Nomadic Yoghurt (called ‘who’) is traditionally served to guests.

It seems so often that the logic is simple with many who don’t have an option to be complicated. The water and the land – the environment – is essential to preserving if the culture is to be preserved. Rugged as they are it is these cultures so close to and dependent upon the land that need gentle hands. They have intuitively taken care of the land. Rotational grazing, care of the waterways, and using their locally sourced wools have made the Karnak and nomadic model of practiced sustainability.

 

We begin a meal with winds ripping at the tent and finish a meal as all dies down into a deep silence. All things end with a coming together in our mighty kitchen tent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The Glacier’s Breath – Amid the Temples of Ice

Debra Tan’s lungs and ligaments are strained still but she is learning the mountain way: ‘dirè dirè’ (slowly slowly) and all will pass. She has undergone a titanic effort to simply commit to a month of uncompromising living as winter settles in at a world of +4000 metres in the Himalayas. Whether a month or an hour the efforts at altitude play differently in every metabolism.

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We have long discussed the need for those who legislate, dictate, and influence (or simply care) to come to these wondrous water caverns in the sky that provide water for so many who simply turn a faucet. For me it is a good feeling even if it means putting her through more physical exertion and cold than she’s ever likely to have felt.

I do a variation on a zip line calling it a 'crawl line' instead.

I do a variation on a zip line calling it a ‘crawl line’ instead.

She is here and can take and absorb it even as she may struggle to simply be here. My ‘work’ – if it can be called such – is simply to guide this journey upwards and act as a kind of reference point and facilitator in my beloved ‘hills’. There are sections of ice want her to see first hand and to take in.

One of our strongest porters, Sarrett moves over the stone in long strides.

One of our strongest porters, Sarrett moves over the stone in long strides.

Days have passed since our ascent onto Bara Shigri and with the days the mountains’ and cold skies have reminded why they remain so idealized. They dictate entirely what is done and when. Solid cold waves grip the valley, our camp and our bones, and only release when tea is served or the sun sets down into our tight little world.

Karma does his magic with some tea

Karma does his magic with some tea

Karma’s worth is immeasurable. Even our durable porters consult with him within the tent. Purun and Kamal are titanic and seamless in their abilities to assess and execute but they too defer to the guru Karma. In short it is one of those rare and wonderful things: a brilliant team with a kind of revered head of command (though Karma would never say such a thing). This is something rare but essential in any foray into the mountains.

Porter Power through an abyss.

Porter Power through an abyss.

We are wrapped on two sides by rising stone. One side is layered with sheets and shards of ice separated by tight shadows and stone. The other is an ever disintegrating wall of sand and shale. Always, there is there are the cracks of ice, the deep moans beneath us of Bara Shigri’s constant shifting. Rocks fly down, ice sheets collapse, and the rivulets increase as the sun’s heat touches all surfaces.

Glacial streams exiting into every greater flowing rivers.

Glacial streams exiting into every greater flowing rivers.

Raju the porter, grunter, jokester and keeper of light feelings in these desolate spaces is proving a touch of comic and joyous energy despite suffering with the cold. He is utterly fierce in his desire to keep the mood light he has become a favorite of mine among the rugged porters. He has the jester’s nobility in his every movement.

Raju and I pause for some face time

Raju and I pause for some face time

By day I will leave camp either alone or with either Purun or Kamal higher into the upper zones to get a closer feel of the ice. A lunch of cashews, raisins, chocolate and tea spent watching an ice cave casually disintegrate reminds that all of this ice that we are upon, all of these non-vegetative spaces may one day be sluicing down into the Ganges one day.

All moraine and ice in successive layers that defy the idea of ice as crystalline and clear.

All moraine and ice in successive layers that defy the idea of ice as crystalline and clear.

Debra remains at camp either watching the mountains, taking cooking lessons from Karma, or making small inroads into the ice. Altitude acts as a firm restraint upon her rather than deterrent. Still, she has remained upbeat and this acts as a kind of panacea upon the entire camp.

Powering up using our sponsored Goal Zero Panels. Sun-power is the only way to go in the high mountains.

Powering up using our sponsored Goal Zero Panels. Sun-power is the only way to go in the high mountains.

Winter is coming though and nothing; no amount of sun nor hints of warmth can hide this fact. Returning to camp one early afternoon the sky and wind turn. One end of our glacier valley has disappeared in swirling white winds. Snow is being pushed up by fierce winds and the temperature is being anchored down.

An sending wall of ice...that continues to melt away into the streams below the surface.

An sending wall of ice…that continues to melt away into the streams below the surface.

One half of the valley has disappeared in grey and blasting snow and very briefly all thoughts of the ice up high and its struggles (and temporal beauty) disappear. The ‘now’ is suddenly front and center vital once again. Getting back to camp before whatever kind of storm this is takes over the entire valley becomes an urgency.

Storm coming up the valley...fast.

Storm coming up the valley…fast.

At one point the world is cut into quadrants. Angled sun hits one small expanse of slope while the snow and wind do their best to annihilate the sky. Another portion has a dust storm whipping down from the other end of the glacier while in one little middle portion that I occupy it is as though everything is simply waiting to see which force will hit first.

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It is the driving snow and wind that arrives first. Arriving back to camp tents are billowing and zipped and not a body to see. I make for the kitchen tent and sure enough Karma (my guru in so many things) is there with a pack of porters with Kamal and Purun on either end sipping tea and Deb entrenched in her regular spot.

Part of the world of ice that will be home for the coming days. Ice upon ice.

Part of the world of ice that will be home for the coming days. Ice upon ice.

Comfort in the mountains is down – as most things are – to basics and the time to take tea, be communal and simply together with other bodies in this isolated world of vital resources is a perfect break. I wedge myself into the tent ready for Karma’s fluids.

I poke around under an ice shelf listening and watching. During the day when the sun's rays hit Bara Shigri there is the constant sound of droplets of water with the odd rumble of disintegrating ice walls and stone.

I poke around under an ice shelf listening and watching. During the day when the sun’s rays hit Bara Shigri there is the constant sound of droplets of water with the odd rumble of disintegrating ice walls and stone.

“Drink tea”, says Karma in his soft voice that travels through all sound. The snow falls but no one sees it…not for awhile at least until we head back to our respective tents. Karma will hold court for now.

 

 

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