Thinking about times past, lessons, and inspired moments and a little sun burned cheeks, few words, and a fearless countenance comes to mind. Thinking too about the importance of communities that still transfer their knowledge as a point of pride and pragmatism.
Little Lubden with the abilities to read and feel what his ancestors long were able to. Knowledge kept!!
Often (so very often) I’ve been treated to moments – or a series of moments – when the senses are engaged, the breath is smooth, and the entire self seems to be blown wide open to something significant and magnificent, and sometimes brutal. This particular series of moments were entirely about this young nomadic boy and his intuition in an ever-changing climate, and remind that some still value passing along information about the world around us. I was living with a nomadic family in southern Qinghai Province documenting how they dealt with living in a time where water and precipitation were more uncertain than ever. On this morning I joined 7-year old Lubden and his brother for their morning ’task’, which was to bring ‘water’ (ice) from a small frozen lake in pales back to the homestead.
The collection of water in any form is part of the morning ritual across the Himalayan world.
It was winter and locals had been praying for precipitation of any kind as the earth and their animals were parched that particular winter. I had listened for two weeks to such complaints and worries. At one point this little boy on this sun-blasted morning just gaped towards the east and blurted out “ka” or “snow”. Not a cloud in the sky…nothing. He repeated it a couple of times. We cut and gouged out chunks of ice from the ‘watering hole’, and marched back home. The next day, it snowed and there was joy, which was celebrated with an extra thick portion of churned butter tea that was served to all. His mother later explained to me that he had “smelled it coming”. Here at altitude, where life is lived on the brunt end of Mother Nature’s every mood, there is no disconnect from what is vital. Here, it is in the doing and witnessing; then in the understanding, where the reverence for the earth and its offerings is continued forwards. Lucky, that we still have those that remember this.
A family affair is the collection of water because it is a question of life.
About JeffFuchs
Bio
Having lived for most of the past decade in Asia, Fuchs’ work has centered on indigenous mountain cultures, oral histories with an obsessive interest in tea. His photos and stories have appeared on three continents in award-winning publications Kyoto Journal, TRVL, and Outpost Magazine, as well as The Spanish Expedition Society, The Earth, Silkroad Foundation, The China Post Newspaper, The Toronto Star, The South China Morning Post and Traveler amongst others. Various pieces of his work are part of private collections in Europe, North America and Asia and he serves as the Asian Editor at Large for Canada’s award-winning Outpost magazine.
Fuchs is the Wild China Explorer of the Year for 2011 for sustainable exploration of the Himalayan Trade Routes. He recently completed a month long expedition a previously undocumented ancient nomadic salt route at 4,000 metres becoming the first westerner to travel the Tsa’lam ‘salt road’ through Qinghai.
Fuchs has written on indigenous perspectives for UNESCO, and has having consulted for National Geographic. Fuchs is a member of the fabled Explorers Club, which supports sustainable exploration and research.
Jeff has worked with schools and universities, giving talks on both the importance of oral traditions, tea and mountain cultures. He has spoken to the prestigious Spanish Geographic Society in Madrid on culture and trade through the Himalayas and his sold out talk at the Museum of Nature in Canada focused on the enduring importance of oral narratives and the Himalayan trade routes.
His recently released book ‘The Ancient Tea Horse Road’ (Penguin-Viking Publishers) details his 8-month groundbreaking journey traveling and chronicling one of the world’s great trade routes, The Tea Horse Road. Fuchs is the first westerner to have completed the entire route stretching almost six thousand kilometers through the Himalayas a dozen cultures.
He makes his home in ‘Shangrila’, northwestern Yunnan upon the eastern extension of the Himalayan range where tea and mountains abound; and where he leads expeditions the award winning ‘Tea Horse Road Journey’ with Wild China along portions of the Ancient Tea Horse Road.
To keep fueled up for life Fuchs co-founded JalamTeas which keeps him deep in the green while high in the hills.